Whether you’re saddling up for the first time or getting ready to swing a leg over your tenth horse for the day, the steps to prepare and stay safe are the same. Keeping your horse comfortable before, during and after is equally important for an enjoyable ride. At Palm Tree Ponies near Dublin, Texas, Kelli Neubert and her daughter, Mae, rely on tried-and-true products from Cashel, Classic Equine and Martin Saddlery to get the job done.
Halter How-To
Mae Neubert starts and trains ponies, and prioritizes ease of use, safety and comfort in her equipment. A quality halter is critical for ground work and handling young horses.
The fit should consider the primary pressure points: the nose, poll and chin/jaw. When the lead is pulled on from the front, the halter will come tight behind the ears. While teaching a horse to back up or bend their head each way, the halter will put pressure on the middle and sides of the nose. Pulling forward causes the halter to make contact under the chin. A halter that is too small or too big can add confusion and frustration for a young horse, and pose a safety risk.
Mae shares what she looks for while getting Donut, a blue roan pony she is training, ready for the day. The Cashel Flat Braid Pony Halter she uses features a wide nose band, creating even contact across the nose. Where the noseband sits is one of the most important things to look for.
“You obviously don’t want it up too high because it will get their eyes,” Mae explains. “And you don’t want it too low because they can slip out of it.”
Right at the middle point, between the nostril and eye, is ideal. When Mae is training, she prefers to adjust the halter some.
“When I’m doing ground work, I like it a little lower. They respond better when it’s down where their nose is soft,” she says.
Rope halters are secured by running the top piece through the loop and back around. The end of the tie should point away from the horse’s eye.
“You can tie it in different ways, but this is really easy to undo,” Mae explains.
The Cashel Flat Braid Pony Halter has a 9-foot matching lead. For halter breaking or ponying a colt, Mae prefers to have a long lead. Comfort and durability are important, too. Look for a material that will stay soft and pliable over time with sweat, dirt, and sun.
Five key points:
● The noseband of the halter should fall at the middle point between the eye and nostril.
● Consider pressure points when securing a rope halter: the nose, the poll and the chin/jaw.
● Secure the halter with one simple loop. Do not double knot or wrap the end of the halter, and make sure the end points away from the horse’s eye.
● Adjust the fit slightly for ground work and training.
● Choose a lead that is long enough to tie and lead the horse safely.
Saddling Up
Saddling a horse is second nature for Kelli Neubert. With one smooth motion, she swings her Martin saddle up on Brass Tacs, aka “Peach Fuzz”, after adjusting the Cashel saddle pad to just the right position. Kelli points out that stout performance-bred horses tend to have less defined withers, which makes choosing a pad that sits up slightly in the front important.
“We tend to be very particular about this,” Kelli says. “I think it’s really important to have a saddle pad that cuts up, and doesn’t put a lot of pressure on the withers.”
There are many options for saddle pads, and simple is best. Kelli and her family have a wide variety of horses coming through their barn throughout the year, which means they need gear that is versatile and easy to use. The Classic Equine Performance Trainer Saddle Pad, Canvas Top features a soft fleece bottom, which helps keep the horse comfortable while wicking away moisture — a critical feature in the Texas heat. The pad is designed to fit a variety of horses.
Kelli positions her Martin saddle on her right hip, holding the right side of the cantle with her right hand, and the front-left of the saddle (under the swell) with her left. She steps toward Peach Fuzz’s left shoulder, and swings the saddle up, letting it settle down on his back gently. Keeping the saddle from coming down abruptly can be difficult, and often causes horses to become jumpy. Practice and a little technique can prevent this from happening.
“Allowing the weight of the saddle to carry itself up allows for a soft landing for my horse’s back, and less strain for me,” Kelly explains.
The saddle should sit so that the cinches land an inch or two behind the horse’s shoulder, with the gullet (the hole behind the horn) sitting right behind the horse’s withers. After placing the saddle, Kelli walks behind Peach Fuzz, keeping her hand on his hip to let him know where she is. After letting the front and back cinch down, she checks to make sure the front cinch is the right length. The Classic Equine Aura Cinch features two D-rings in the middle — one for securing a breast collar, and the other connecting to the back cinch. “We want those right between their front legs,” Kelli says.
After adjusting the latigo on the right-hand size to fit Peach Fuzz, Kelli walks back around to the left side. Standing next to her horse’s shoulder and facing toward his hip, she runs her hand under the gelding’s belly and grabs the front cinch. Standing at his shoulder and running a hand under his belly while keeping contact prevents any surprises and keeps Kelli safe. She pulls the front latigo down while pulling the cinch up, wrapping the latigo back up and through twice. Initially, the front cinch should only be tightened partially.
“Don’t pull it too tight. Just enough so that it’s snug,” Kelli says.
Kelli always rides with both a front and back cinch. In a casual arena setting, the back cinch should be tight enough to prevent anything from getting under it, but does not need to be taught against the horse’s belly. Using a back cinch is important for safety, and it also ensures that a horse is used to having pressure in that area.
“We start a lot of horses, and I think it’s really important to make sure they all know what a back cinch is,” Kelli shares.
Kelli secures the back cinch, double-checks that the front of the saddle pad is slightly elevated, and ensures that none of Peach Fuzz’s mane is stuck underneath. Now she’s ready to ride.
Five key points:
● Choose a saddle pad with a slight lift in the front for airflow and the horse’s comfort.
● Practice lifting the saddle with your hip, and allow the motion and weight to carry it softly down.
● The two D-rings on the front cinch should sit directly between the horse’s front legs.
● Secure the front cinch first, making sure it is snug enough to stay.
● Double-check the position of the pad and saddle before fully tightening the cinch and mounting.
“We start a lot of horses, and I think it’s really important to make sure they all know what a back cinch is.”
Kelli Neubert
Extra Protection
Mae and Kelli utilize Classic Equine’s line of leg protection while training to avoid any unnecessary bumps and scrapes. These boots are constructed to stay in place while moving with the horse. Added protection under the front and back pastern prevents injury when stopping or turning quickly.
Before applying leg protection, it is important to make sure that your horse is comfortable having their legs and feet touched. Like saddling, starting at the front and keeping contact with your hand as you move down the horse’s leg keeps the horse aware and keeps you safe.
Mae prefers to start at her horse’s front left leg, placing the bottom of the boot below the pastern and a few inches up from the hoof. She then secures the Velcro from the top down. She moves to the back left, around to the back right, and finally, the front right leg.
Routines like this are a part of Mae and Kelli’s daily life, and keep both them and their horses safe and happy! To learn more about different types of equine protection and tack for your horse, visit Classic Equine and follow along on Facebook, Instagram and TikTok.
